SMWS 76.34 (Mortlach)

SMWS 76.34 (Mortlach)

Region: Speyside

ABV: 58.6%

Price: £240.00 (Auction)

76.34, titled “Carnations and Treacle,” is a 13-year-old release of Mortlach that was distilled in June 1990 and bottled in July 2003, this was matured in a sherry cask and bottled in an outturn of 655 bottles.

Nose

On the nose, there’s little that immediately identifies this as Mortlach spirit. However, there are subtle notes of Bovril and beef crisps. The profile leans heavily towards sweet sherry with cranberries, figs, and reduced plums, accompanied by a touch of sulphur. Additional notes include chocolate orange, ginger, a hint of pepper spice, and crème brûlée. It’s easy to nose, especially considering the ABV.

Palate

On the palate, it’s dominated by sherry and meaty notes. Dark chocolate, a hint of sulphur, bacon, and beef jerky are present, along with warm pepper spice and roasted coffee. The finish is of good length but carries a bitterness reminiscent of burnt coffee. There are also notes of caramel, treacle, and orange juice. The mouthfeel is rich and indulgent, but it’s the kind of dram we’re not sure we could drink much of in one sitting.

Nose (with water)

With water, the nose reveals notes of garam masala, cumin, brown sugar, balsamic vinegar, a hint of charred wood, and cardamom. The addition of water has helped to open it up, reducing the dominance of the sherry notes and adding a little complexity, making it feel less one-dimensional.

Palate (with water)

With water, the palate reveals honey, a charred note, and a slightly less meaty character, leaning more towards honey-glazed pork. Notes of coffee Revels, chocolate, sugar syrup, toffee, and caramel come through. The mouthfeel remains good, as does the finish, with the water helping to open up and tame the dram. That sulphur has disappeared.

Conclusion

We’re quite sensitive to sulphur and we’re definitely struggling pre dilution. A few drops of water however saved this for us. Even diluted it’s still a touch one and dimensional and while we enjoyed it, we’re not sure we’d manage to get through more than one these a night. For us it’s a 7/10, but we’ve no doubt some of the sherry lovers out there would put this higher.

Score: 7/10

Value

For some, this will be; for others, perhaps not. Personally, we had to grab it as it’s from one of our favourite distilleries.

• 10 - Perfection. One in a million
• 9 - Outstanding. Exceptional whisky.
• 8 - Great. Would seek this out.
• 7 - Good. Quality whisky.
• 6 - Above average. Happy to have a dram.
• 5 - Average. Drinkable whisky.
• 4 - Below average. Passable.
• 3 - Flawed. Noticeable negatives.
• 2 - Defective. Significant faults.
• 1 - Offensive. Pour it out.

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