SMWS 53.227 Sweet, Salty and Smoky (Caol Ila 18yo)

SMWS 53.227 Sweet, Salty and Smoky (Caol Ila 18yo)

Region: Islay

ABV: 56.8%

Price: £140.00 (Auction)

Distilled on 3rd March 1997 and bottled in 2015 after 18 years’ maturation in a refill ex-bourbon hogshead, this was a single cask release for The Scotch Malt Whisky Society. The outturn was 248 bottles.

Nose

The nose opens with light peat smoke, Manuka honey, sea spray, wet pebbles, and a herbal note a little reminiscent of Ardbeg. The alcohol is well integrated, and you can tell there is a little age to the dram. Returning to it after a few minutes, we also find Parma Violets, cigar ash, pork sausages starting to burn on a barbecue, pencil shavings, and a light coastal sea breeze.

Palate

The palate opens with flat lemonade, lavender, brown sugar, dark chocolate, and a light ashy peat. A touch of peppery spice appears on the mid-palate and carries through to a medium length finish, alongside the sweeter notes and that gentle ashiness. It is good, but our main critique is that, while the mouthfeel is not bad, it is just missing something. It is more refined than younger offerings, but the complexity does not quite match the age.

Nose (with water)

Water brings a hint of mint, lemon-scented cleaner, green apple cider, caramel, and icing sugar. The smoke is more noticeable now, though the nose feels a little less complex overall.

Palate (with water)

Water intensifies the dark chocolate note and adds a hint of bitterness. It is also a little spicier than before dilution. Pencil shavings now emerge on the mid-palate. The mouthfeel remains poor and the sweetness has diminished.

Conclusion

The distillery feels like a victim of its own success. After all, how often do you have a bad Caol Ila? The trade-off is that it takes a little extra for the distillery to stand out. Sweeter than we would expect for refill wood, it still carries a nice backbone of peat to keep things interesting. It may sound odd to say about a peated whisky, especially if you are new to the water of life, but this is an incredibly easy drinking dram, one where you could pop the cork and finish the bottle with friends in a single evening. Still, it is not without nitpicks, and those take us down to a 7.

Score: 7/10

Value

It’s hard to comment on the value of these older bottles. No doubt the original price would be considered a bargain now, but whether the auction price is fair will depend on your personal preferences.

• 10 - Perfection. One in a million
• 9 - Outstanding. Exceptional whisky.
• 8 - Great. Would seek this out.
• 7 - Good. Quality whisky.
• 6 - Above average. Happy to have a dram.
• 5 - Average. Drinkable whisky.
• 4 - Below average. Passable.
• 3 - Flawed. Noticeable negatives.
• 2 - Defective. Significant faults.
• 1 - Offensive. Pour it out.

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