We're looking at another pair of releases for Thompson Brothers' 25th Anniversary of Dornoch Castle.
Thompson Bros Sideburn 1989 35yo Cask #Bal.001
Region: Speyside
ABV: 51.1%
Price: £244.95
A 1989 vintage Speyside blended malt, filled on 21st October 1989 and matured for 35 years in refill wood. Bottled on 1st September 2025 by Thompson Bros for the Dornoch Castle 25th Anniversary, with label artwork by Whisky Hobo. The outturn was 333 bottles.
Nose
The nose opens with an instant sweet, custardy apple aroma, lots of freshly chopped yellow apple flesh mixed with a creamy vanilla custard. It's old whisky, the age is really shining through here. Going back, we're also finding light fudge, some shortbread, as well as a little peach, more juice than flesh, too. The alcohol is gentle, balanced and well integrated, you don't get any aggressive spice, but it's still present enough to give the dram some weight. Air brings out a richer aroma, not so much of cask, but of apricot, honey and aged Sauternes wine. There's also a certain aroma of bung cloth sitting in the background.
Palate
The palate opens with a burst of honey, rich syrupy honey, alongside zesty waxed lemon, apricot jam, mango pulp and a little grapefruit as the palate develops. There's also some artificial watermelon flavouring, clementine and some of those yellow apples we got on the nose. The mouthfeel is really quite good, it's thick, syrupy like and holds its texture through the developing palate. The alcohol feels a tad warmer than the nose let on, but it comes through in more of a gentle white pepper heat. There's still hints of that aged Sauternes wine, a little funky, as well as some almond paste and a little bit of salinity appearing too.
Nose (with water)
The reduced nose has more of that honeyed, rich, syrupy aroma, more Sauternes, waxy lemon, a few chalkier notes as well as some brown sugar in the background. It's not changed too much, there's still a burst of fruit there too, and even a little dustiness starting to appear - old wooden furniture. To be honest, the nose doesn't really need any water, it was very well balanced and characterful beforehand.
Palate (with water)
The reduced palate has lots more yellow apple, peach juice, runny honey, and a little artificial jelly baby sweetness starting to appear. There's less pepperiness, but more grapefruit now - a little pith giving some bitterness to the finish. Like the reduced nose, this doesn't need any water - it's great at natural strength.
Conclusion
What a cracking dram. It's layered, complex, balanced and a pleasure to nose/drink. It's been aged well and allowed to become the best version of itself - and possibly one of the best Balvenie's we've ever had. It's our first 9/10 for 2026.
Score: 9/10
Value
Not cheap, but then it’s also a 35yo blended malt, and those don’t come around often. Considering the age and outturn, the price feels justified.
Thompson Bros Bruichladdich 2004 21yo Cask #639
Region: Islay
ABV: 54.9%
Price: £165.00
Distilled on 30 June 2004 and fully matured in a first fill bourbon barrel, this single cask was bottled in 2025 for the Dornoch Castle 25th Anniversary. The outturn was 182 bottles.
Nose
The nose opens with salt and vinegar potato crisps.. interesting. There's also some yoghurt coated peanuts, almond marzipan, freshly fried doughnuts dusted in icing sugar, and a little persimmon too - a zingy, fruitiness on the latter part of the nose. Going back, there's more of a sourdough bread note - with a spread of honey butter on top. Time and air brings more of a sherbertiness, maybe some potpourri too. It's got quite a lot going on, and seems to change each time you go back to nose it. The alcohol is present but in good balance, only showing a little white pepper spice.
Palate
The palate opens with creamy almond paste, white flowers, buttercream frosting, and a little bit of that yoghurty, butyric Bruichladdich flavour that the distillery is famous for. There's quite a lot of spice on the palate - a mixture of white pepper and a hint of chili on the back palate. There's also some sawn wood dryness that feels a little amplified by the butyric flavour, it's a lot less sweet than we would have expected. Time and air brings out more of a rich coffee and chocolate flavour, dark cooking chocolate and a mug of mocha.
Nose (with water)
Reduction brings more of those simple bourbon cask sweetness and caramel/vanilla aromas to the nose. It's got more of a honey, almond, and salted caramel aroma coming out - it feels less like Bruichladdich now though - less of that distillery character, however there's still a bit of the yoghurtiness coming through on the latter part of the nose.
Palate (with water)
The reduced palate maintains a good texture, and hasn't really changed too much - a little less spice but the same mixture of sawn wood, coffee and chocolate. It's got a bit more sweetness coming through, and actually a drop of water seems to have opened this up for us.
Conclusion
It's a characterful dram, quite complex and does change quite a bit on each nose/sip. However there are a few negatives, it's a little drying and hot on the palate - a touch alcoholic. It's tasty, but we've had a fair few other 21yo Laddies that we have preferred.
Score: 7/10
Value
The price stings, but indie releases of Bruichladdich are not cheap.
- 10 - Perfection. One in a million
- 9 - Outstanding. Exceptional whisky.
- 8 - Great. Would seek this out.
- 7 - Good. Quality whisky.
- 6 - Above average. Happy to have a dram.
- 5 - Average. Drinkable whisky.
- 4 - Below average. Passable.
- 3 - Flawed. Noticeable negatives.
- 2 - Defective. Significant faults.
- 1 - Offensive. Pour it out.
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