We've got a couple of indie Ben Nevis bottlings up for review.
Svenska Eldvatten Ben Nevis 14yo “Cat Label” Cask #637
Region: Highlands
ABV: 59.0%
Price: £99.00
Distilled in February 2009 and matured in a single ex-bourbon barrel, this whisky was bottled in November 2023 as part of Swedish independent bottler Svenska Eldvatten’s Raskatter (Cat Label) series. The outturn was 177 bottles.
Nose
The nose is initially quite tight, but opens with Play-Doh and milk chocolate buttons. As it sits in the glass, a black pepper spice begins to develop. It’s fairly dry and savoury overall, though given enough time and there are hints of dried mango, grapefruit, burnt wood, Nevis funk and fresh bread. That pepper spice really makes the ABV quite noticeable.
Palate
The palate opens with caramel and lemon juice, followed by a pepper spice that gives it a kick, but is less intense than on the nose. In fact it’s noticeably sweeter, with notes of Fruit Salad sweets, green apples, grapes, and cranberries. The mouthfeel is good. The medium finish has both that pepper spice and sweetness, with a hint of dark chocolate bitterness appearing right at the end.
Nose (with water)
The reduced nose has shed much of the pepper spice, replaced by more Nevis funk and fresh bread. Caramelised brown sugar, roasted coffee, pomegranate, and chocolate orange follow. It’s become really pleasant to nose now.
Palate (with water)
With water the palate becomes much more tropical, with papaya, mangoes, and passion fruit leading the way. There’s still a touch of black pepper spice that shows up on the finish, though now joined more intense sweeter notes. Mouthfeel and finish remain largely unchanged.
Conclusion
Personally, we’d add a drop of water, as it tames some of that spice on the nose and palate, leaving a solid example of a mid-teens Ben Nevis in bourbon. Some might want to push the score a touch higher, but for us this is a well deserved 7.5.
Score: 7.5/10
Value
A little more than we wanted to pay, but it is coming from a smaller bottler. This is sold in the UK by House of Carrick for those who are interested.
Dràm Mòr Ben Nevis 10yo Cask #136
Region: Highlands
ABV: 57.4%
Price: £105.00
Distilled in 2013 and finished in a first fill Palo Cortado sherry hogshead, this Ben Nevis was bottled in the Dràm Mòr Summer 2023 release after 10 years of maturation. 180 bottles were released.
Nose
The nose opens with some strawberry Chewits, summer fruit cordial, gingerbread, treacle, and a little burnt brown sugar. It’s a very Sherry forward nose. Showing a little patience and we also discovered caramel, Cadbury fudge fingers, and orange rind. There’s not a lot of alcohol here, just a little black pepper spice to give it away. While not bad this feels like it is generic sherried whisky.
Palate
The palate has a punch of upfront sherry. Behind that some dry earth, smoked almonds and burnt sugar. Based on the nose we were expecting more fruit on the palate, but this is a little drier than we expected and a touch hotter. There’s some bitterness on the finish from coffee revels and grapefruit. There’s also some Cinnamon and aniseed that adds spice on that medium length finish. The mouth feel is good. Our biggest complaint is it doesn’t feel like the cask and spirit have married completely. That instead the sherry has been layered on top of the spirit.
Nose (with water)
With water more sherry influence emerges, with notes of raisins and cranberries leading the way. There’s also Caramac, fudge, and a little toffee. The alcohol remains in good balance. It’s pleasant, if a little one dimensional.
Palate (with water)
Reduced the palate becomes more earthy and it’s noticeably less bitter now, less spicy, and less hot than when neat. However, the mouthfeel has taken a slight hit with dilution. Ginger and leather appear mid palate, while the sweeter notes linger longer now. That spice also remains on the medium finish.
Conclusion
Water solves many of the issues we had with the palate, turning it into a well balanced dram. It leans mostly sherry forward, but there are some pleasant earthy and sweet notes with a touch of smokiness that add depth. Our biggest complaint, however, is the nose. Whether neat or diluted it never quite delivers as much as we’d hoped.
Score: 7/10
Value
Price seems high given its age and cask type.
- 10 - Perfection. One in a million
- 9 - Outstanding. Exceptional whisky.
- 8 - Great. Would seek this out.
- 7 - Good. Quality whisky.
- 6 - Above average. Happy to have a dram.
- 5 - Average. Drinkable whisky.
- 4 - Below average. Passable.
- 3 - Flawed. Noticeable negatives.
- 2 - Defective. Significant faults.
- 1 - Offensive. Pour it out.
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