Master of Malt’s Dalry Milk Whisky (North British) & Watt Whisky Dumbarton 22yo

Master of Malt’s Dalry Milk Whisky (North British)

Region: Lowlands

ABV: 45.4%

Price: £39.95

This 16-year-old release of North British features a 2:1 ratio of Oloroso to Palo Cortado cask-matured spirit. Unfortunately, it’s no longer available—the bottle design, which paid homage to Dairy Milk, landed them in a bit of trouble and was discontinued to avoid legal issues.

Nose

The nose opens with cola cubes, a little ginger spice, artificial ginger more than anything else, toffee pennies, cinnamon sticks, and a little bit of artificial cherry too. Quite sherry forward it seems, and we're not getting too much neutral grain spirit - the casks are definitely doing the heavy lifting here. Time and air does bring more of an acetone aroma out, along with a little charred wood and clove spice. It's not the type of nose that jumps out at you, we're having to do a good bit of searching to pull out these notes, however the alcohol is also fairly far in the background. 

Palate

The palate opens with more toffee pennies, Werther's originals, Terry's chocolate orange, caramel sauce and overcooked waffle towards the finish. We're also finding those younger grain flavours to be quite prominent on the mid palate, a tad astringent for us. The mouthfeel is a bit flat, there's a chalkiness but not particularly thick, but the finish lingers for a decent length. Going back, we're finding jelly babies (the red one in particular), cheap cocoa butter, nut brittle and angel cake fingers. 

Nose (with water)

The reduced nose is very ginger forward, a little marzipan, perhaps some sour plum too - it's changed quite a lot and also feels a lot more expressive. Deeper into the nose we're finding the previous aromas of red kola, cinnamon and clove. Water has definitely awoken this for us.

Palate (with water)

The reduced palate comes forward with more chocolate, caramel, toffee, and a little bit of biscuitiness too. We're reminded of chocolate coated digestive biscuits now. The flavours feel somewhat muted but also more integrated, it's become even more sippable.

Conclusion

Excellent marketing, slightly-less excellent whisky in our opinion. We really wanted to like this more, but the palate is too thin and there's too much neutral spirit poking through without enough cask influence. Saying that, it's not all bad - there's some nice flavours and aromas to be found hiding away, and it's very sippable - not all whisky needs to be pondered over for hours on end. It benefits from a drop of water for us, and that's taken it from a 6 to a 6.5/10. 

Score: 6.5/10

Value

A good price at launch, though now sadly only available at auction for eye-watering amounts.

Watt Whisky Dumbarton 22yo

Region: Lowlands

ABV: 55.5%

Price: £87.95

This Dumbarton release was distilled in 2000, matured in a hogshead, and bottled in 2023. It has an outturn of 204 bottles.

Nose

Palate

The palate opens with rich milk chocolate, good quality stuff too, vanilla bon bons, icing sugar, pie dough, ginger ale and a bit of alcohol spice as the palate develops. It leaves some lemon posset and white chocolate syrup flavours as it moves into the finish. The mouthfeel has a nice creamy quality to it, not super mouth coating but definitely textured and relatively thick. There's a slight astringency coming through as we continue to sip, a little raw alcohol appears reminding us that this is on the younger side for a single grain whisky. 

Nose (with water)

The reduced nose continues along the same lines as before reduction, with more fudge, honeycomb and a little bit of lime zest coming through now. That floral note has turned into a more green, vegetation-like aroma, and the alcohol feels more in balance now.

Palate (with water)

The reduced palate maintains the creamy mouthfeel, and we're getting more milkiness in the form of milk bottle sweeties, white sugar cubes, caramel log biscuits and candied ginger. The palate actually benefits from a drop of water, however we're still getting a bit of raw alcohol as it moves into the finish.

Conclusion

A very drinkable single grain whisky. Lots of the sugary sweet vanilla and citrus we love from older grain whisky, with a bit of a florality keeping it interesting. A little young-feeling on the palate brings the score down for us, but there's no doubt it's a good dram.

Score: 7/10

Value

A pretty good price compared to other indie releases of Dumbarton.

• 10 - Perfection. One in a million
• 9 - Outstanding. Exceptional whisky.
• 8 - Great. Would seek this out.
• 7 - Good. Quality whisky.
• 6 - Above average. Happy to have a dram.
• 5 - Average. Drinkable whisky.
• 4 - Below average. Passable.
• 3 - Flawed. Noticeable negatives.
• 2 - Defective. Significant faults.
• 1 - Offensive. Pour it out.

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